Our first multi pitch outing together since moving back to Juneau last Spring! Knuckle Buster is one of the most popular Juneau ice climbs due to it’s moderate grade (WI3+), lack of avalanche hazard, and the fact that it forms up earlier than many of the other climbs.
Approach
We got started on the approach from Blackerby Street just before sunrise, awkwardly walking up someone’s driveway and past their shed to the small unofficial trail network on the lower slopes of Blackerby Ridge. I know people have been using this approach for many years, but I do not know how the property owners feel about it, so if you decide to go this way please be subtle and respectful. The trail turns right after a huge old growth spruce with a geo cache at it’s base. The the small drainage that forms Knuckle Buster is the first one that meets this trail, and it’s easy to miss. We were lucky to have tracks from a previous party to follow, that took us up on the left side of the drainage.
Pitch 1 (WI3 55m)
A large fallen tree provides a great sheltered belay area for the first pitch. We climbed up the right side on thin solid ice with a few wet sections. The steepest climbing is right off the ground, and the pitch finishes on a large bench with fallen trees again providing a nice sheltered belay.
Pitch 2 (WI3+ 60m)
Pitch two was in excellent condition, and was by far the most enjoyable. We opted to climb just left of center, up a 15′ section of vertical, solid, heavily featured ice, followed by a long near vertical stretch with lots of nice little snow covered steps to rest and place screws from. The angle eases off near the top, and there are a few trees to choose from for the belay. We belayed on the left side to reduce rope drag, and allow for easier communication, but the right side would give you a more comfortable position.
Pitch 3 (WI2 60m)
From our belay atop pitch two, our third pitch started with a short step of WI2, and then a walk up low angled snow and ice to a large fallen tree about 10 ft. from the base of another WI2 step. This was a nice position, far enough away from the final pitches to be safe from icefall, but in line to reduce rope drag and make communication easy. It made the next pitch a rope stretcher though.
Pitch 4 (WI3 60m)
A short step of WI2 ends in a large bowl at the base of the final falls. We climbed up the center on wet ice, and ledges of brittle ice covered snow that constantly shattered off. Gabe spent a lot of time clearing off crud to get to the more solid ice below. The climbing was easier than pitch 2, but more work. Our 60m ropes just barely brought us to a good belay tree on a flat bench. We had to turn around here, as we were running late to relieve our babysitter. There is a short steep final pitch that can be climbed from here (or combined with the previous pitch depending on belay position and rope length). In the past when Gabe has climbed it the beta was to hook roots and kick steps up the vertical slushy, but it could be a decent WI4 step in ideal conditions.
Descent
Four 60m rappels using the same trees as our belays brought us quickly to the base of the route. Good times!
AlpineMonkeys 